This is the aft portion of the tank... It's the part the pilot can see while he's flying. I no longer need the tach cable pass-through because I'm using an electric tach. I also don't need the old Scott direct-read float type fuel gauge. I still need the 2-1/2" shelf because my radio and altimeter are fairly deep in the panel.

I'll need to have a mounting plate welded in place for the capacitance fuel sender I bought. The plate came with the sender so I'll mail it to the welder when the time comes.

I also need two AN fittings welded in place near where the original tach cable tube was welded in place. One will be for a vent line and the other will be for an aux tank input. The vent line will need a piece of tubing attached to it running right up near the fuel cap (presumably the highest point in the tank).

Here's the side of the tank. Nothing really remarkable here. One person suggested that I only need a single baffle to stop the fuel sloshing. He also suggested pop-riveting the baffle in place and then having the welder fill the pop rivets. He said I'm less likely to have leaks and/or distort the aluminum from excess welding. I'll leave this choice up to the welder.

The back of the tank. Again, the tach pass-through tube is not needed. I've also Xed out the original vent fitting on the top of the tank. I'm going to run a vent line instead of just having it stick out the top.

The bottom of the tank. Nothing remarkable here. It's obviously tapered to fit the taper of the fuselage.

Top of the tank. I had someone weld in the cap, but they really distorted the aluminum. The new fuel cap assembly will consist of a close-tolerance hole in the top of the tank. I'll then install the gas cap into the aluminum that covers the tank and glue a large tube around the flange on the gas cap. The whole thing will slide down into the hole in the gas tank itself.

I'll end up marking the tube and cutting it off so it doesn't protrude too far into the tank. Once I've got a good depth fit, I'll use a Loc-Tite product similar to Pro-Seal to glue the tube into place. This is much easier to describe in person so I can use my hands!

Jack from the Yahoo Mustang forum sent me this picture of his tank. This shows the concept of the tube attached to the flange of the gas cap ring pushed down through a close-tolerance hole in the top of the gas tank.

In a recent e-mail, Jack tells me that he's modified the tank to include: (1) an indent for a Dynon and associated wiring; (2) Attachment lug for a grounding strap to discharge static electricity during re-fueling; (3) Flange for inductive fuel level sensor; (4) High-level boss for vent line; (5) High-level boss for fuel transfer from tip tanks (without siphoning); (6) High-level boss for inverted float-type level sensor for fuel transfer pump shutoff; (7) Finger strainer in bottom of tank at boss to shut off valve--a 3/8" stainless steel ball valve.

Thanks for the update, Jack. That's a good-looking tank!