After much head-scratching, I decided there was no other way to get wires from the front of the airplane to the rear of the airplane. I was going to have to drill some holes in the spar and a bulkhead or two. AC43.13 and common sense says that you should double-up any structure you drill through if you want to maintain structural integrity. I made a bunch of doubler plates.

Here are the doubler plates clecoed in place on the bulkhead at the back of the seatbottom. In the final installation I only used a doubler plate on the back side of the bulkhead.

And here is a doubler clecoed in place on the main spar. I put a doubler plate in front of and behind the spar web. I figured I wanted to maintain as much of the original strength as possible...

The main spar doubler plates have been painted and riveted in place. I also installed a few nylon snap bushings to protect the wires that will eventually run through these holes.

The rear bulkhead doublers have now been riveted in place. I also used a few nylon snap bushings to protect the wires.

This is my baggage floor. I am making provisions for a baggage area auxillary fuel tank. The AN fitting will remain capped unless/until I decide to install an aux. tank.

The other two jacks are for video and audio. I've run wires to the top of the vertical stabilizer in anticipation of installing a lipstick camera some day. I'll strap a video camera in the baggage area and then plug into this RCA plug for the tailcam feed. The audio feed will be coming from the (otherwise unused) co-pilot headset output. Should be pretty slick.

It's probably pretty dumb, but here's the story:

My strobe system gives me the option of selecting a strobe pattern. By touching a particular wire to ground the strobe power supply cycles from one strobe pattern to the next. This button will ground out the appropriate wire and change my strobe pattern. It won't be accessible in flight, but I figure it might be fun to tinker with on the ground.

Some tricky bending was required for the plumbing between the aux tank transfer pump and the aux tank input fittings. I guess this isn't uncommon. I sure wasn't aware of the need for all these bends. I wasted a couple of feet of tubing trying to fabricate a 90 degree bend. I finally gave up and went with the curly-Q thing because even after I created a decent 90 degree "L" bend, I didn't have enough straightaway to flare the tubing and install the necessary hardware.

You can also see the backside of my audio and video feeds along with my strobe pattern selector button.