I guess I should back up one picture and show how I determined the spacing for the rivets holding the new flange in place. Since the cowl is curved and it's hard to hold my fan spacer up to a curved surface, I laid some masking tape down on my desk, marked the lines on the tape, and then transferred the tape to the cowling. I marked the halfway point between 2 of the marks and then shifted the tape 1/2 a notch to the left to achieve the staggered look you see in the previous picture.

Once the flange was clecoed into place it was time to cleco the top cowling to the bottom cowling. I'm pretty darned impressed by the fit of the cowling in its stock form as supplied by Mustang Aero. Even my RV friends were impressed by how well it fit "right out of the box." Good job Chris Tieman!

I won't show you all the pictures I took of the inlet areas, but this shot is a good example of the kind of finish work I'll need to do for a perfect fit. Not bad at all.

For the unfamiliar, this is what the lower half of the cowling looks like when received from Mustang Aero. The outside of the cowling is covered by gelcoat and the inside is just raw fiberglass. I cut out the square hole where the AirMaze air filter intake would attach just so I could reach up inside the cowling as I was doing the initial trial installations on the engine.

I'm not planning on using the C-150-style air intake, so this is the first in a series of pictures where I start the modification process.

I'm gonna cut out the center tunnel section so I installed these scrap aluminum strips to help give the cowling some stability in anticipation of the big cut!

I used a little tape to mark my desired cut line. I've had pretty good luck cutting fiberglass using a die grinder with a cut-off wheel.