The results were pretty good. There's a fair bit (1/8" or so) of shifting that can go on when you actually fasten the spinner to the backplate. I decided that it wasn't worth it to try to make things fit tighter than what you see in this photo.

This is a bonus picture of my brother's girls. They're fantastic kids. I'm thinking I'll restore a Champ when it comes time for them to learn to fly.

 

Look for the little one on the front cover of a brochure for children's churchy reading materials. They also recently put her on the packaging for a bunch of churchy children's toys. There's a publishing company here in Loveland, Colorado that does a bunch of the churchy publishing. They've asked her to come back later this week for another "photo shoot." It's tough to tell in the baseball hat and a snapshot in a Mexican restaurant, but she's a darned cute little girl! And I'm not biased at all!

Another bonus picture!

 

This is one of my other hobbies. It's a 1996 BMW K1100LT. I bought it last fall. It only has a little over 22,000 miles on it. Very fast and a blast to ride. I removed the hard-sided luggage for this photo. It's BMW's touring edition so there is considerable storage space when all the bags are installed. I really like the fact that they're removable for local driving.

I've made more progress on the spinner installation. In fact, as of today (07/20/2009) it's had it's had one iteration of filling, sanding and priming and has been primed for a second time. I'll sand this coat of primer with a finer grit sandpaper in hopes of applying the actual finish paint next. You never really know if you're ready for finish paint until you've sanded the primer coat a little. Hopefully, no more pinholes!

It's now 2 days later... I've wet-sanded the inside of the cowling and the exterior of the spinner. I'm not going to finish the inside of the spinner [gasp]. I was rolling along planning to have the interior of the cowl along with 1/2 of the spinner ready for white paint when I realized I hadn't cut the holes for the exhaust! Woops. Another project.

But first, there's more... Here's a shot of the wedge that goes behind each of the prop blades. This is why you should be at least somewhat careful when you cut the slots for the prop. If you weren't paying attention and just hacked away, you'd end up spending a significant amount of time fabricating these little wedges. As it worked out, I just had a little sanding to get to the final dimensions.

 

The 4 clekos you see on the backplate will be replaced with flush rivets as there's no reason this piece should ever be removed. The single rivet standing alone towards the top of the picture is going into a nutplate that I installed on a little fiberglass tab I added to the wedge. This was necessary or the wedge would have just sort of flopped around.

So how do you figure out where the exhaust stacks should exit the cowling? Hmm.

 

This is a picture of my solution. I fabricated a piece out of .063" aluminum using the exhaust gasket as a template. I drilled a very small (1/16") hole in the middle of my new piece and dangled a plumb bob through the hole. I then mounted my new piece to each cylinder with the lower cowling in place. It was necessary to raise the tail and level the cylinders. I actually measured to make sure the exhaust exits the engine at a 90 degree angle...

 

The pictures that follow will make this all clear as mud!