The cowl cheeks are now wearing their fist coat of primer. It's amazing how imperfections can go unnoticed until a uniform finish like primer is applied. The joke amongst those doing fiberglass work is that you sand and fill and sand and fill until you're blue in the face and just **know** that there can't possibly be any imperfections remaining. This is when you apply the primer so you can see all the remaining imperfections and can then the process of sanding and filling and sanding and filling and then priming all over again! It's amazing how this process holds true no matter how much you do it!

I ordered and received a new fiberglass spinner from Mustang Aeronautics. They stopped selling the aluminum spinners. That's fine with me, I'd rather have a fiberglass spinner. Less prone to cracking...

 

I made this template to help me cut the spinner to fit my 3-bladed propeller.

 

The really observant among you will notice that I failed to install the front prop bulkhead. Bummer. It's little things like this that add many hours to an airplane project.

In order to mark the location of each propeller blade, I put a piece of blue tape along the circumference of the spinner. I carefully marked where the tape began and ended. I then took the tape to my workbench, measured it and marked it in three places. I re-installed the tape on the spinner and transferred my marks to the spinner.

 

Here' I've taped the prop template to the spinner and traced the outline. It's important to save the small wedge between the "leading edge" of the prop blade and the spinner backplate. You'll eventually rivet this piece in place on the backplate. The upcoming pictures will make this more clear.

Pretty danged cool if I do say so myself. You can see where there's a void behind the prop blade. This is the space where you'll rivet the wedge piece to the spinner backplate.

 

I put the blue masking tape on the root of the prop blades to protect them as I was fitting the spinner. Don't want to scratch my brand new shiny prop!

The gap around the prop blade was a little bigger than I wanted. I drilled a hole in a tongue depressor just big enough for a fine Sharpie pen. I then put the Sharpie in the tongue depressor and traced a line onto the spinner that was equidistant to the prop blade. If I knew the line was exactly 3/8" away from the prop, then I just measured 2/8" in from the line to wind up with an even 1/8" gap between the spinner and the prop.

I covered a small piece of poster board with clear packing tape. I then taped the poster board to the good side of the spinner and added a row of flox and resin from the inside of the spinner. Flox and resin is a very sturdy combination. I've found it to be a good way to extend a piece when I cut too much or over-sanded.

 

You can also see where I've measured a given distance from my original line inwards towards where the prop will be. I made a bunch of dots and then connected them to form a cut/sanding line.