This piece will be bonded on top of the rectangular intake. The round inlet will receive hot air from a small heat exchanger attached to an exhaust pipe. I added a little bubble of clay to allow clearance for my piano hinge pin. I glassed over the clay and then picked out the clay from the inside after the resin had cured. Just for orientation... the new piece is sitting sideways to the way it will be glassed on.

The carb air door has now been installed.

 

Here's the intake as I'm bonding it to the lower part of the cowling. To bond the part, I mixed epoxy resin with flox to form a paste. Flox is chopped cotton. It looks a little bit like baking flour. It does a good job of proving a little substance to the resin and helps fill in small voids if your parts don't fit together perfectly.

I sandwiched the piano hinge pin between 2 layers of aluminum stock to make a control horn. I suppose there's a more elegant solution, but this one should give a nice connection for a clevis-ended control cable. If it ever fails, I'll try to find a nicer looking solution.

This picture probably should have come before the last picture, but it still works... I painted most of the inside of the intake before I glued it together because I figured there would be almost now way to paint it once it's glued together. I wasn't all that concerned about perfect quality paint, I just wanted it to look black if anyone ever looks down inside the intake.

With the intake and carb box glued in place internally, the time came to bond my new cowl bottom to the original cowling. I used a resin-flox mixture and a bunch of cleco's to hold everything in place. In the grand scheme of things, fixing cleco holes is no big deal so I used plenty of cleco's.

Here's a view from the underside of the lower cowling. you can see where the old cowling stops and my new cowl bottom begins.