The canopy frame and piano hinge are clamped in place. If you look at the full-sized picture, you'll see where I marked where the skirt holes lie.

I cut half-moon circles out of the piano hinge flange to allow for the countersunk holes of the canopy skirt. I haven't test-fit the entire assembly so I may end up creating countersunk "washers" to fill the voids. This is something I might wait to do until after the final paint.

This is a close-up shot showing the hinge flange riveted in place and the canopy swinging open. Note that I countersunk the rivets in the hinge flange attached to the longeron.

I've lightly clecoed the canopy skirt in place to verify the fit. Looks pretty good. Notice the messed up corner? This was caused by the previous hinge set-up binding during the open/close process.

There was excess plexiglass hiding under the canopy skirt. It looked bad so I decided to wack it off with a die grinder and a cut-off wheel. I've marked the line I intend to follow with electrician's tape.

I've trimmed the plexiglass in this picture.

The underside of the canopy skirt wasn't very nice looking so I decided to paint the plexiglass to hide the ugliness and generally give it a more finished look. Here, I've applied fine-line tape to define the paint line on the plexiglass. It's advisable to use fine-line tape in this situation because it creates a very nice looking paint line and shapes easily to allow for the contours of the canopy.

The original builder used upside-down tinnerman washers to hold the canopy plexiglass to the canopy skirt. I've not seen this done before, but it seems like a pretty decent idea. It spreads the load out and covers a slightly-enlarged hole in the plexi to allow for thermal expansion and contraction.